Sewing-machine attachment for making braid trimming.



No. 668,277. Patented m.- I9, moi. s. ARONSON.

SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT FOR MAKING BBAID TRIMMING.

(Application filed Nov. 2, 1899.)

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No. 668,277. Patented Feb. l9, I90l. S. ARUNSON. SEWING MACHINEATTACHMENT FOR MAKING BRAID T RIMMING.

( Application filed Nov. 2, 1899.)

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No. 668,277, Patented Feb. l9, lam.

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SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT FOR MAKING BRA-ID TRI MMING.

(Application filed Nov. 2, 1899.) (No Model.)

Unite SAUL ARONSON, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TOIGNATZ SHUSTER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

SEWlNG-MACHINE ATTACHMENT FOR MAKING BRAID TRlMMlNG.

SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 668,277, dated February19, 1901..

Application filed November 2, 1899. Serial No. 736,565. (No model.)

T0 at, whom it may concern.-

Be it known thatl, SAUL ARONSON, a citizen of the United States, and aresident of Brooklyn, Kings county, State of New York, have invented aSewing-Machine Attachment for Making Braid Trimming, of which thefollowing is a specification.

My invention relates to sewing-machines, and has for its object toprovide the same with means for feeding, laying, and folding a braid orribbon across the path of the regular feed of the machine to form abraid trimming. In carrying out my invention I have embodied thesemeans, which virtually form an auxiliary feed, in an attachment whichmay be applied at will to the sewing-machine.

In the accompanying drawings,showing my improved attachment as appliedto a machine in which the regular feed is accomplished by a feed-foot,Figure l is an end view of so much of a sewing-machine as is necessaryto illustrate my invention with my improved attachment applied. Fig. 2is a plan view of said attachment and showing its position in relationto the presser-foot, needle, and feed-foot. Fig. 3 is an elevation ofthe said attachment looking at Figs. 1 and 2 from the right-hand side. 2and 3. Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are respectively a side, front, and plan viewof an improved foot especially adapted for use with my improvements.Fig.8 shows a modified form of the feed-foot shown in Figs. 1 and 2.Figs. 9, 10, and 11 represent certain varieties of trimming that may bemanufactured by means of my improvements.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, the frame 1 of the attachment is secured tothe bed-plate 2 of the machine in front of the feed-foot 3 and thepresser-foot 4, through which the needle 5 passes. The feed-foot 3 haspractically a rectangular movementimparted to it-thatis, from theposition shown in Fig. 1 it descends so that its serrated under sideengages with the material being operated upon,then moves backward tofeed the material, then rises out of engagement with the material, andthen moves forward above the material back into the position shown,ready to again come down upon a fresh part of the material. The feedingpart of this motion takes place between Fig. 4 is a section on line 4 4of Figs.

each stitch, and when the feed-foot 3 is in its raised position thepresser-foot 4 holds the material firmly while the needle passes throughit-that is,the feed-foot 3 and stitching mechanism constantly operatetogether,alternately acting upon the materiahas is usual withsewing-machines, whether the feed is above or below the material. Withthe exception of the shape of the feed-foot, which in this caseconstitutes a measuring device, the parts 3 4 5 here shown are takenfrom a well-known embroidering-machine known as the Oornely machine, andneed no further description as to the mechanism for operating them.

The band 6 of braid or ribbon is passed from its reel through suitabletension devices and guides, as is customary in braiding-machines, to thecarrier 7, through the slot 8 in carrier, (see Fig. 2,) and is laidunder the feed-foot 3 before the machine is started. By meanshereinafter explained the carrier 7 guides the braid 6 back and forthacross the path of the regular feed,(the path of the slot 8 beingindicated by the dotted lines 0;, Fig. 2,) and the motions of thecarrier '7, the regular feed and stitching mechanism so cooperate thatthe following result is obtained: As the feed-foot 3 is clamped downupon a fold of the braid lying in one direction it covors half (or partof) the width of the braid at the place where the next fold'should takeplace, and when the carrier 7 draws the braid in the opposite directiona fold forms at this place over the foot 3, whereby the widthof the foot3 determines the width of the folds or loops. The feed-foot movesbackward, the presserfoot 4 comes down and holds the folded braid whilethe feed -foot rises and the needle 5 makes a stitch, and before thepresser-foot 4 rises the feed-foot having advanced comes down on thematerial to feed it again after the needle has been withdrawn. Each timethe carrier 7 moves from one end of path 00 to the other the braid isfolded; but these motions of the carrier are preferably so timed inrelation to the feedfoot and stitching mechanism that the carrier ismaintained at either end of its path during two or more motions of thefeed-foot in order that two or more stitches are made between eachfolding operation to hold the folds securely in place. In

Fig. 2 is represented a portion of the completed trimming having twostitches taken across the width of the braid between each loop. In thisfigure the parts are shown in their respective positions atthe beginningof' the second feed motion for the fold, and as the foot 3 begins tomove backward the car i 20, pawl-carrier 22, and pawl 25, and the acrier7 begins to move-to form-another fold.

From the foregoing it will be seen that with my attachment there arevirtually two intermittent feeds-the regular feed constantly codperatingwith the needle and the auxil iary or cross feed codperating with thefirst feed preferably only at intervals. Also it is evident that thisfeed-foot 3 has three differ-- ent f u nctionsfirst, to m easu re anddetermine the width of the completed trimming; second, to feedthetrimming asit is stitched,.and, third, to alternate with the.presser-foot 4 to press upon and maintain the foldslin place until theyare stitched. In machines having an underfeedithis measuringpressure-foot would operate in unison with the feed.

Mechanism for operating the crss-feed..

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, the carrier 7is secured to a runner 9at asuitable height in relation to the feed-foot 3 to properly feed thebraid, and a stop 10 is pivoted to the runrunner 9 is .pivotallymountedon the lever 13 and is provided with rollers 14, bearing against thecam-surface 15 of the frame-of the attachment.

This cam-surface 15 is so calculated that as the lever 13 is turned onthe axis 16 the rollers 14 will holdthe runner 9 in such a position thatthe slot 8 in the carrier 7 travels in the path indicated at w in Fig. 2for the purpose of carrying the braid anism may be employed to rot-atethe camwheel 18: An operating-lever 19 20 is pivoted to the frame 1ofthe attachment and is .so constructed that its arm 19 is hit by amoving part 21 of the regular mechanism of the machine at each operationof the feeding mechanism. As this moving part 21 descends from theposition shown in Fig. 1 it carries the arm 19 with it, thus moving thearm 20 upward. The free end of arm 20 bears against the pawl-carrier 22,mounted to turn on the shaft 23, and as the arm 20 rises it moves thesaid pawl-carrier 22 in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 4, against theaction of spring 24.

The pawl 25, pivoted to the pawl-carrier 22, engages with the cog-wheel26 and turns the latter one tooth at each forward motion of the pawl.The cog-wheel 26 and cam-Wheel 18 are secured together and rotate on theshaft 23. Owing to the swift running of sew ing-machines, the quickmotion of lever 19 quired momentum tend to turn the cog-wheel .26farther than one cog at a time; but the square nose 27 of the pawlprevents this. A

spring-pawl 28 prevents the backward motion of the cog-wheel 26, Whenthe moving part 21 has released the lever 19 20, the spring 24 tendstoreturn the pawl-carrier 22 to the position shown in Fig. 4. Todisengage the pawl from thecog-wheel, a trip-lever 29 is provided, whichon the forward motion of the pawl is raised out of the way against theaction of the spring 30 by the stud 31 on the pawl 25, and on the returnmotion of the pawl presents its projection 32 in the way of the stud 31and causes this stud to ride up over'the projection, thus lifting thepawl 25 out of engagement with the cog-wheel 26. When the trip-lever 29releases the pawl 26, the spring 33 returns the latter into engagement,-with the cog-wheel 26.

From the foregoing itwill be seen that the cog-wheel 26 and cam-wheel18are moved step by step at each motion of the feeding mechanism; but thecam-wheel is so formed .that it will only move the forked arm 17 atintervals of .two stitches. By substituting other cam-wheels it isevident that theforked arm 17 maybe moved at other intervals that is, atevery stitch,atever-y third or fourth stitch, .&c.,or evenatirregularintervals. A spring 24 bears .upon one of two flat surfaces on the lever13 and arm 17 to aid in quickly changing the position of the carrier 7from .one extreme end of its path to the other as soon as the forks ofthe arm 17 begin to'be move .by the cam-wheel 18. I

Diflercnt forms of t'rt'mming.Referring now to Fig. 2,-the feed-foot 3is forked and the outer edge=of each fork is equally-distant from theneedle. With such a measuring feed-foot the trimming will be formed asrepresented .in Fig. 2, the stitching being down the center and thefolds of equal width on each side thereof. As trimming of this kind ismeant to be stitched upon garments and the originalstitching that heldthe trimming pulled out to have as little stitching as possible showingon the finished garment, it is preferable to have this first stitching(in making the trimming) a little to one side of the -center,whereby thesecond stitching will not interfere with the easy unraveling of thefirst. To accomplish this, I may use a measuring feed-foot, such asshown in Fig. 8that is, a foot having the outer side of one branchfarther from the needle than thatof theother branch 36. With this foot atrimming is made having this first stitching toone side of the center,asshown in Fig. 9. It is evident position or their positions, wherebydifferent forms of trimming may be manufactured. 'Iwo varieties areshown in Figs. 10 and 11.

Referring to Figs. 5 to 7, the measuring feed-foot is provided with twobranches 37 38, mounted on pivot-rods 39 and 40, respec tively. By Wayof example only I have here shown a construction adapted to change theposition or positions of one or both of these branches 37 38; but I donot limit myself to this construction, as any suitable mechanism may besubstituted to accomplish the same result.

To the foot-bar 41 is secured a bracket 42. The pivot-rods 39 40 arepassed through their hearings in the said bracket, their bent arms 43 44resting on the upper part of the bracket, and the branches 37 38 arethen secured to the lowerends of the rods. The bracket 42 is forked atthe rear and supports a spindle 45, on which are mounted a ratchet 46 between the forks and two cams 47 48 outside the forks. By removing thenuts 49 and the washers 50 other cams may be readily substituted forcams 47 48. Loosely mounted on the spindle 45 is a pawl-carrier 5],having a tail 52 engaged between pins 53 on the post 54, secured to thebed-plate 2 of the machine, so t-hatas the foot-bar 41 and bracket 42rise or fall the pawl-carrier 51 will be turned on the spindle 45. Thespring-pawl 55 engages with the ratchet 46, and as the bracket 42 risesthe ratchet is rotated by the pawl in the direction of the arrow, Fig.5, and when the bracket 42 descends the pawlcarrier turns back and thepawl 55 drags over the ratchet 46. The arms 43 44 of the pivotrods,carrying the branches 37 38, are held against the edges of the cams 47and 48 by a spring 56,so that each time the foot-bar 41 rises and thecams 47 and 48 are consequently slightly rotated the cams act upon thearms 43 44 to move the latter back and forth according to the contour ofthe can], the arms 43 44 being turned rotate the pivot-rods 39 40, andthus move the branches 37 38 nearer to or farther from the needle 5, sothat these branches may measure and determine different widths offoldsof the braid. The cams 4748 (shown in the drawings) will cause themeasuring-foot to expand and contract gradually and regularly, so thatthe trimming formed has represented in Fig. 10. It is evident t at ifone of these cams 47 or 48 is a trifle .rger than the other the-footwill be mainined relatively wider at one side of the needle than at theother side and the stitch ing will be a trifle off the center of thetrimming.

If in place of the cam 47 or 48 a plain circular wheel is substituted,only one branch of the measuring-foot will change its position and atrimming will be formed such as represent-ed in Fig. 11, or if anv otherpeculiar outline is desired the cams 47 and 48 may be replaced by camshaving contours calculated to produce such outlines.

In conclusion I may add that by the special construction of theauxiliary feed and of the measuring device a single-needle machine ismade to produce what has been hitherto accomplished only by two-needlemachines that is, the folds or loops of the trimming are firmly held bya single line of stitching. Moreover, by timing the parts so that across- :feed takes place only at every two or more stitches braid of anywidth may be manufactured into trimmings, and my measuring deviceenables me to produce trimmings of different widths.

I claim as my invention 1. In asewing-machine, the combination of asingle-needle mechanism, with a guide adapted to carry a braid back andforth in front of the needle to form loops each side of the single lineof stitching of said machine, the said guide operating at every two ormore stitches, and means for reversing the braid at each change ofdirection of the guide so that the opposite faces of the braid arealternately presented uppermost.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a feed-foot, and means foroperating the same, with a braid-carrier, the said foot and said carrieroperating one at an angle to the other, and means for moving the saidbraidcarrier intermittently from one end of its ICC path to the otherand maintaining it at either end during two or more motions of thefeedfoot.

3. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a feed-foot and means foroperating the same, with a braid-guide adapted to cooperate with saidfoot to fold a braid or ribbon over the edge of the foot alternately onone side and then on the other.

4. In a sewingmachine, a reciprocating foot and means for automaticallychanging the width thereof at any predetermined interval ofreciprocation.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle, with afoot andmeans for automatically changing the width thereof and maintaining theouter edge of one side of the foot farther from the needle than theouter edge of the other side.

6. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle, with a foot, andmeans for automatically varying the distance between the needle and theouter edge of either side of the foot to any predetermined extent and atany predetermined interval.

7. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a braid-carrier adapted toguide a braid or chine, and means for automatically varying ribbonalternately back and forth across the the width of the folds.

path of the regular feed, with a foot cooper- In testimony whereof Ihave signed my ating With said carrier to fold the braid and name tothis specification in the presence of 5 determine the Width of thefolds, and means two subscribing Witnesses.

for intermittently contracting and expanding the said foot to vary thewidth of the folds. SAUL ARONSON 8. A sewing-machine provided with meansWitnesses: for laying a braid or ribbon in folds at an an- O. O.CHIPMAN, Io gle to the path of the regular feed of the lna- EDITH J.GRISWOLD.

